new 134a cans

[Cornbinder89]

Has anyone but me fallen victim to the latest A/C change? It seams that the old 134a cans that were tapped by piercing the neck are yesterdays news, they now require a different tapper. they have a hole in the neck with some sort of plug that has to be depressed to open the flow. They will not work with the old can tappers, I found to my dismay.
Never heard a word about it, but when I bought a can at Wally world I didn't notice the change.
From what I see, the old tap will not work with the new cans, and the new tap will not work with the old cans! Makes me want to get an old side tapper that would put a hole in the side of the can!

[Tom Greenleaf]

Sorry to be so late but yes, new cans are meant to "self seal" so you don't lose any extra. NAPA sells the adaptor if you are having trouble. OMG tried a couple works anyway and seals if you leave the better tap on (have dozens) will hold for over a year on old type not time enough on new type? Second one just sprayed all out using correct tap - that's what you get when total idiots mandate a change lost a can.

Just BTW - it should be the exact same product here like where you are stuff is about $4 bucks a can down from about $10 in Summer. Could be a Mass. thing it just cost too much to keep out of season stuff in stock but it was at both Wallyworld and IDK if you have Tractor Supply stores couldn't guess if you do what stuff they sell. I do like them for fasteners by the pound not every screw blister packed. Duh - I do stock all common nuts, bolts, washers etc.

Other IDK for A/C is the bad mouthed Harbor Freight sells OK assortments of "O" rings (says rated high enough) and other crap. Same joint is only place I could find an incandescent plain test light sometimes reasons I want to see those dim if a load or flickers a little LED doesn't if you noticed easier before you dig out better stuff any 6-12V area wiring,

[Cornbinder89]

I call my test light an "optical voltmeter". There are time you WANT to load the circuit you are testing. I guess I was "asleep at the switch" 'cause I never heard about the change in cans. One can still buy the can side tapper that will take care of any problem, but I don't like them cause they don't seal as well as the top of the can tappers.
No one around me sells the "adaptor" to use with a regular tapper, only the "suicide hoses" to dump it right into the low port.
I have a sealed 30 lb keg in the basement that I intend to keep sealed as long as I can get little cans, that way if something leaks I am only out 12 oz.
I would be willing to invest in a GOOD quality top tapper for the new cans, but Mastercool doesn't have one yet that I can see and the off shore junk isn't worth paying for.

[Tom Greenleaf]

About now a "Good Quality" top tapper is gone. Haven't seen what I have in ages. Solid brass, the flat "O" ring AND Acme cap for real threads can put thru gauges, they once came with a short yellow hose and or use a super long one. Some with a "suicide gauge" some without. Now I see the plastic connectors, blue junk hose.

The adaptor I'm talking about I haven't used much or not so sure I'm using it properly. The point of saving the refrigerant is a joke - not with the older ones surprised even me hold and again NAPA got new seals for inside and for hoses.

May ask why have the small cans at all? They are portable if paying attention is the same stuff. Side tapper I have I don't trust well nor expect to save anything once touched the product is gone so hope you know you need all of it.

Anyway - I'm not thrilled with the new top it's still Acme thread look there's a flapper inside that isn't punctured it's pushed down without a sharp point but I think just used two and both wasted nothing sealed nor could take off the adaptor without it spraying away dangerously. Still had tons of the old stuff was last year now the stuff is too cold to touch for a while as usual not any kept always at room temp but not allowed to be below freezing or zero unless I forgot and left one in a trunk or something outdoors.

I don't have a perfect answer for what works best if you use or want 12oz cans. There doesn't seem to be anymore quality stuff to take those seriously unless a lie it's the same product!

[Cornbinder89]

The reason I go with small cans, is I use so little at a time, I hate to have a 30 lb keg open , if the valve leaks a little I could end up getting one charge out of the keg! Where I may not use 4 cans in a year or more (if I can keep away from the deer!), it seams the simple solution just to buy as I need it.
If I was home more, I would take the EPA 608 universal test and see if I could get out of trucking, but at my age I don't know if I would have a problem switching career's this late in the game.
With little cans being available for the DIY's I see no reason to get the 609 cert. I'll just hold onto the keg in case the powers that be decide we all need to switch to R 1234yf, like they did with R 12 . All I read say I want nothing to do with R1234yf.

[Tom Greenleaf]

About the same. I have a brass Acme check valve with a Shrader on the 30lb should by rights stop with just that and does but for how long trust a 50 cent Shrader? Now that the smaller cans are so reasonable AGAIN just have to deal with that new stopper. Smile, it's been to cold to think about A/C anything not unusual.

That and low capacity systems even some higher ones the weight matches just do weigh the cans I've found them wrong or empty upon opening a case.

Most of what I deal with now is my own right now unplugged to compressors can't engage said I do that hasn't been the right day yet to just let them run to move oil still not long I don't trust the pressures till lots warmer. That trick has worked for me two vehicles I'll use, one over 30 years old the other past 22 still have original compressors and were blowing cold as they should just did touch-N-feel for temps all was well when sudden Winter comes as it can.

One more: I have a lot of sealing caps are Acme to put on can taps or the 30lb bottles IDK right now if those are sold anymore they came with stuff, have "O" rings and kept them all.

One can will go in a vehicle I know well enough if performance drops off in season tweak it up to one or the partial I saved or unplug compressor you are SOL anyway open the dang windows but save the system. At this point those two are NOT getting big bucks put into A/C sounds whacked but can do without it and owned zillion of vehicles made without it totally!

[Cornbinder89]

If anyone has a source for a GOOD can tapper for the new self sealing can, please post a link or at least the mfg so I can buy one.

[Tom Greenleaf]

I bought one hose, gauge and tap at Tractor Supply and two adaptors at NAPA auto. Was late just touched a couple once lost unused 134a blew out anyway and either way. Seems so far a pointless way to save refrigerant loss my own brass taps on top came with caps and "O" rings usually hold for another season. Old stuff can even replace seals of taps only have the Acme threaded outlet and need several if for use here, there or thru gauges. Marked and weighed if touched and again when needed.

Look at those new cans. Apparently the puncture is not the new tap is dull just pushes on a flap that's supposed to self seal. Anyway it didn't.
Just FYI end of season purchase of the 134a by case was only about $4 bucks a can states pure stuff. I'll know more later still haven't caught the time with vehicles or products both warm enough to check properly and do, do a lot of system tweaking for loss over Winters in much older vehicles.

First real warm day all day will show other folks potential customers if system work or not just too cool still to know for sure - speak for myself and equipment and shop to do this stuff not everyone,

[Cornbinder89]

Does seam that Mastercool makes one, 85512 is the number

[Tom Greenleaf]

I actually don't know who made the adaptor but don't think you need it now. Haven't busted in to more yet. What it did it took sharp point and push a dull one so flap would close first try that can blew everything out when I removed the brass good tap.

If (bought a lot of it) it isn't working out just side tap the dang cans I had it with STUPID idea to save the world that doesn't work or make any sense at all,

[Cornbinder89]

Used the Mastercool tapper for the 1st time today, and like most of their stuff works well, I would recommend it as an addition to anyone's A/C tools.

[Tom Greenleaf]

I'll be looking for that brand. An adaptor already mentioned somewhere uses a dull poker from a sharp one leaks when tapper is removed. I thought the whole point was self seal the can but it just doesn't. Price already more than double of 134a already have quite a bit from the sell out last fall think it can last fine. Just may give up thinking I can save partial filled little cans had been holding because I mark the new TW if part used was staying there?

[Cornbinder89]

I read somewhere that the old piercing type cans were phased out at the end of last year, likely why you were getting a good deal on the cans. The new can tapper relies on the valve in the can to do the sealing. The blue plastic "adaptors" sold aren't worth what they get for them. The Brass tapper works and you can shut off the flow with the handle, you just screw it out to shut instead of in.
Mastercool stuff is usually fairly good. the knock-offs are what you need to keep an eye out for and avoid them.

[Tom Greenleaf]

IDK - Another obstacle and mistake, so was dumping R-12 I've said - Schraders on things. Even Id (Interdynamics) had brass taps with a strong cap so no hose but stays sealed can use yellow hose run it thru gauges or any machine that accepts that. No more of those seen but have dozens.

I replaced the rubber seals inside connector hose ends did work.

Uggh! Still too cool/cold here to touch much of any of this wasn't way too hot for use last year so stuff (has to be out of my way) hasn't been pulled out for quick use YET! Now unsure of what will still work properly for tools, the stuff already on hand.

Wet, wet, wet out to record amounts so far isn't flooding but close. Who knows - the heat could come all at once be a real race to just check a few highly suspected need some attention still waiting would really rather do it just once and be done!

[Septaric]

I took three trips back to Advance Auto returning cans before I found out about the can change. The guys at the parts store had no idea either! All they sold for taps was the old school style too. I have gotten the old style can type to work you have to try different depths being screwed in. It's a pain in the ass.

[Tom Greenleaf]

Still a worthy topic: You need the proper tap for the can(s) early ones didn't cut it may still be there and what is sold mixed in. The new is a flap to seal can you are NOT piercing it with a hole such that you should be able to remove tap and save unused product. Finally after real iffy adaptors the newer is working as intended for me now VERY slow to need much mostly done with this stuff.

So that leaves you to side tap if equipped or get the right stuff. I liked to use 12oz cans thru gauges these now make that a problem yet again make up some of my own adaptors really like to vacuum out all, add to high side while under vacuum eliminates all chance or air and finish off to weight as close as possible already measured "tare weights" and thru the charge process.

It's that or buy the auto equipment to charge systems is nasty costly for me too, it's seasonal to low or no need for A/C as a vehicle gets old and rusted enough too many other things to worry about just make it usable as a vehicle.

The right taps and cans do work. AYOR with A/C work this isn't the "old days" system do not want to be off the good old "boost it up" by a color gauge even more AYOR to wreck a good system so take your time.

Other: Parts places on line or in person are supposed to know a fair amount but it's really up to YOU to know not them to know every aspect of what they sell and how to do it,