Delphi compressor on a 96 GMC Sierra 1500. I have a 1996 GMC Sierra 1500 4.3L V6 A/T (std cab), that my wife received from her uncle's estate. Sometime before he passed away, he had mentioned to her that the A/C "just stopped working one day". I am preparing to set about debugging the problem and I've come here to ask some questions regarding the compressor on the system. After wiping away the dirt on the label, I find that it's a Delphi SAE J639, however the "Part" potion of the label is not completely readable. It appears to be: (something) 587 or (something) 527. On the rear of the compressor, there is a circular 2-pin electrical connector which currently does have a 2-pin female connector wire attached to it. Delphi's web site says that their model CS0120 is the proper compressor for this model vehicle. However, the Delphi CS0120 has no such 2-pin circular electrical connector fitting on the rear of the compressor. We do not know if the current A/C system was a factory-installed system or a 3rd-party aftermarket installation. All I know at this point is that the electrical clutch will not engage, so for all I know right now, the compressor itself may or may not be serviceable. I was just trying to run down available parts and prices in case I may need them as I get further into the process of diagnosing the system. Any information you might have on a suitable potential compressor replacement would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
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The Delphi CS0120 is an HT6 compressor and correct for your application. This compressor is used in multiple applications and is typically sold without the 2-pin high-pressure sensor. The sensor can be transferred from the old compressor to the new one after removing the metal plug on the back of the new compressor. The metal plug is held in place with an internal snap ring.
That said, talking about compressor replacement is premature. First, see if the compressor turns. You should be able to turn the clutch by hand. If unable to turn by hand, place a socket on the center shaft bolt and see if it will turn. Also, take a look at the clutch air gap. It should be about 0.020 inch. The wider it is, the more compressor wear. I would next check the system static pressure with a manifold gauge set. R134a static temperature - pressure charts are available online. On a warm day, the static pressure should be slightly higher than the ambient temperature. If the system is empty I would next recommend removing the fixed orifice tube for inspection. The orifice screen should be clean. The presence of debris or metal shavings indicates a problem with the compressor or condenser heat exchange.
A/C system refrigerant leaks are the most common cause of inoperative systems. The chance of a system leak on a 1996 truck is very high. -
Temp pressure chart from the reference section of this siteComment
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Quoting clonestar "> Any information you might have on a suitable potential compressor replacement would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance. <"
You seem already to toss this compressor I suggest verify as much as you can first if and where leaking common to the OE Delphi was "belly leaks" of compressor. Evidence would be oil. Do check for any pressure as already posted as a link is telling it's empty if lower than temp.
With the mix of unknown history and marginally readable part #s of it this one may just kick on for a second if you jump the low switch IF TWO WIRE ONLY DO THAT, at the accumulator, passenger's side.
Somehow have a lot of hands on with this thing in the 5.7 V8 is just two cylinders more of a 4.3 should share a lot of similar but workable compressors to just bolt on come with a plug you swap at compressor use your old one. Washers to space it to fit bolt on exact fit Sanden brand fits just right is a better compressor IMO but were all clones TMK with that is some risk.
Strong guess without looking it up at all my web connection is totally gone weak with overloaded problems in my area loses it without warnings the servers are stating that and say trying to power it up during the about total shut down of my area.
Onward: Just look up who and where for this if OE now for the "bolt on" Sanden if you can prove this both leaks like most did and should still hold a vacuum well. Note debris just dumping out compressor if anything comes out in PAG 150 oil.
Your call with what you find could make this guess all wrong so take note of that.
It's not costly and you do want OE (get from a dealer now) should be red and green for the two gaskets on top to use just once will leak if reused.
If you wish toss "O" tube with OE spec it's behind the FR directional lens to access it save you some hunting for where in condenser.
Expect the alloys to all bust for lines and leave what you have - take that risk or it would all have to go hoses, condenser none would behave about like welded alloy forget it.
It quit so you said or is credible.
May or may not say on accumulator system specs for oil and charge I think all were 32oz 134a.
See what you find out there before disabling whole truck so can have everything you need ahead of time.
This should be remarkable cheap as A/C goes my worst fear is just lousy but new cloned items.
Do spin new (should be new with clutch) with oil on bench by center bolt/hub will oil shows going thru before initial vacuum and charge to spec.
Hey - I do and did this last of the ones you can about touch/feel heat and cold of high and low lines know it's real close do stop, drive around block before last bit of charge do NOT exceed that 32oz much it will tolerate some.
Most important stop the job if anything is going wrong and ask or find out why and what to do about it.
Sorry if my hunch is wrong but this was so common to me now an ancient truck by years at least most things were laid out well to do this,
Tom
MetroWest, BostonComment
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