Bad Compressor?

[Phydeaux1]

I will when resolved. For now I'm going to take a break from it for a bit, at least I have some cold air again coming out of vents... while rolling, just have to time the traffic lights. Thanks!

[Cornbinder89]

I here you, a bad compressor could very well give the symptoms you are seeing. Most often we see high pressure reading with poor cooling, but a compressor that isn't able to move refrigerant for whatever reason would give you the symptoms, just not real common. Compressor's being one of the more expensive items I hate to "throw parts at it" and hope, but it could well be your problem.
If you do go with a compressor, take a hard look in all the lines for metal debris which if left in could ruin the new compressor on start up. Flushing the lines and depending on what type of condenser, a condenser replacement might be in order. Tube and fin condensers can be flushed, but serpentine and parallel flow condensers are impossible to clear of debris and should be replaced.
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.

[Phydeaux1]

Could be, but I wouldn't count it dead yet. Your low side remains high and you high side is low esp at idle. Tx valves are cheaper than compressors and could also have a problem, or you could have reed valves in the compressor that are leaking. Short of "bench testing" the compressor against a solid or fixed orifice, your only other way is to try and see, I would try the Tx valve 1st cause it will be a lot cheaper
A bit more history on the vehicle would help, did it come on all at once, or was the a problem that was getting worse over time?
welcome to the board, by the way.

It has been getting worse over time, about two months ago I noticed it getting warm at idle, I thought it was radiator fan but its working properly. Its a dual climate system for driver and pass. then I went after dryer and no change. Its been one thing after the other. First the heater control valves failed, they stay closed with 12v hot when key is on. The control panel failed and I had to replace it to get the 12v back to closing the valves. Also replaced the two heater valves or there's no warranty on control panel. Then the actuators for the vents failed and I had to replace two of them to get air vents directed properly. Its been a real pain. Now the high side reading drops so low its not cooling well at idle. I hope its not the Tx valve, on this car it requires replacement from inside and need to take a lot of the dash out from what I'm hearing from the Jag forum folks. The compressor is easier.. but not by much, have to lift the engine to get clearance to remove. But I figure its the easiest of the two and go for it first, replace new since its such a pain changing. Not sure what else to do...

[Cornbinder89]

Could be, but I wouldn't count it dead yet. Your low side remains high and you high side is low esp at idle. Tx valves are cheaper than compressors and could also have a problem, or you could have reed valves in the compressor that are leaking. Short of "bench testing" the compressor against a solid or fixed orifice, your only other way is to try and see, I would try the Tx valve 1st cause it will be a lot cheaper
A bit more history on the vehicle would help, did it come on all at once, or was the a problem that was getting worse over time?
welcome to the board, by the way.

[Phydeaux1]

Car is a 2007 Jaguar S-type, temp here is 88 degrees.
I am wondering if I have a compressor going bad. I have replaced the dryer element, there is no orface tube on this car, only expansion valve. I vacuumed the system for an hour, refilled correct Freon amount but found no improvements regarding my readings.
Could these readings be saying the compressor is failing at low rpm??
Thx..

At Idle:
Low Side 55 High side: 150

At 2000 rpm
Low side 55 High Side: 280