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New compressor filled with PAG46, want to go Mineral oil/R12

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  • New compressor filled with PAG46, want to go Mineral oil/R12

    Compressor is a FS10 for Ford applications and sticker on it says it's filled with 7oz PAG46. 92 F150 is factory R12 and I'd prefer to keep it that way. What is the proper way to get the PAG out and cleaned enough to use R12 mineral oil?


  • #2
    Check warranty with the maker and should be no problem dump the PAG totally out, flush thru mineral and spin new with plenty as well. Don't use a solvent thru a compressor.

    There were NO 134a or PAG oils used for true 1992 Model Year Ford products that I know of rather all were R-12 new. It was M.Y. 1993 same vehicles could be different,
    MetroWest, Boston


    • #3
      Originally posted by Tom Greenleaf
      dump the PAG totally out, flush thru mineral and spin new with plenty as well.
      Years ago I bought a compressor for my 1988 R-12 Mazda truck, it came with PAG in it (I tested it at my work). I dumped that out, flushed twice with R-12 type mineral oil and rotated by hand 10 times, dumped final oil rinse, then filled with correct level of R-12 type mineral oil, was fine.

      A month later co-worker bought same brand of compressor for his 1990 Mazda Protege, that compressor actually had R-12 type mineral oil in it already (tested that too), go figure...


      • #4
        Thanks for the info - I was almost going to go the conversion route but decided why subject a 26 year old system to R134A? R12 seems to still be around even though I sold off most my stash years ago....


        • #5
          Think hard about converting now some questions for you and thoughts:
          Just how nice is this now quite old truck? By any chance is it all or mostly original that you know of? Younger than this when the retrofitting was the rage did many that were at the end of serious long term life of the vehicle plus unwilling customers to go absolutely wild. It's rusty here despite it can get hot at all hell doesn't usually last long but could.

          So was getting empty systems found some stupid small leak and left hoses alone and OE condenser? CCOT systems such as this they worked out fine I'll just say you lost 20% of BTU power of cooling and slower to get correct temps out vents. Swapped out any fan clutches for new best thermostatic ones, exact fit.

          Ester oil was the choice just leave it alone checking for leaks before and after.

          Most did pretty good, old hose didn't leak that fast or at all.

          If this is a standard cab and or you drive alone or just two people was fine. Warning, there's really no going back so think if you can do with just less BTU and speed to cool off especially if parked in sun it's slower to get going but will.

          Your call on that and the demand by you depends. It's both costly and now going to be more difficult to find pre-made hose or find someone who can make them up.

          No other changes found they did OK if a working system not all screwed up you should be fine.

          Lots on this archived at the home page above marked "Read Only" just how to get the right amount for this vehicle if you wish to do that,
          MetroWest, Boston


          • #6
            Thanks for your comments Tom, I'm sticking with R12 in this old system. The old durable tube and fin condenser is still good and I know performance with it will drop off if I switch to R134A.

            I was on this site quite a bit back in the heyday of converting to 134A and then dropped off as I upgraded to newer rides that already had 134A.

            Now finding myself with 3 older work trucks that all need some a/c service - a 92 F150, 93 F350 (both still R12) and a 2000 F450.

            Curious if anyone came out with a drop in replacement with performance as good as R12 and not needing an oil change? I suspect not but thought I'd ask.


            • #7
              I still drive (fair weather only) an '89 Full Size Ford product still all OE R-12! Good point on the condenser the junky one for 134a HERE mind you in Winter if not wild snow can ice up roads and somehow almost rocks are used or mixed in. OMG - can't get thru a Winter if highway driving unless there's nothing in front of you the stones and chunks of rock salt are insane. Holes (3 on one) condenser pouring out oil spots but the OE one usually could take it usually.

              Could be any road debris same problems with boxy front end/grills of vehicles. Geez schedule an oil change and condenser at least they weren't that costly.

              You've listed real FORDS large vehicles do just fine if OE with 134a some others just factory did a retrofit before selling them new kept the same old stuff just added the HPCO required for a legal use of 134a.

              If you have enough and or can get more go for it with R-12. Takes a lot of problems out if you are fussy or demands are excessive,
              MetroWest, Boston


              • #8
                Originally posted by 3fordasho
                R12 seems to still be around even though I sold off most my stash years ago....
                R-12 is still legal to use in systems that were designed that way, and still legal to buy. See Ebay, don't get any R-12 containing any sealers; you may need a 609 license.

                I still use R-12 in my 1988 Mazda truck.


                • #9
                  We never bother to go back to R12. First, because unless you have a stash, is no longer easy to get. All of the vehicles we've retrofitted to R134a, several dozens of older Fords, perform surprisingly well.