What type compressor oil for a 99 Chevy K1500 truck

[VAND]

I have a 99 Chevy (mfg date 10-29-98) K1500 truck, extended cab, 4x4, 5.7 Vortec with a ACDelco compressor 89019367. Is this compressor a H6 or a HT6? I have no idea what type of oil is in the system now. When I look up what type oil is used, I find conflicting information, as in PAG 46 or PAG 150. Should I use the PAG 46, 150 or use something else? I looked for a sticker under the hood and on the acc/drier and can't find anything. Is 32oz of 134a the correct amount?
Thanks for your help.

[Tom Greenleaf]

Hi VAND, Welcome. I just happened to own and use a `97 (built 11/96) with this, same 32 oz syst. and it works all OE. I would seek this late (age of it) a Sanden bolt on replacement and have before on same "R" code 5.7s with luck. Reason was just avoid the chronic "belly leak" of the Delphi (Delco) one otherwise is fine.

I'll leave parts matching to you if yours still all OE and sure compressor is toast do know you need to know why. If a debris field downstream just compressor can't do alone, will need "O" tube, condenser and flushing out. Lube (PB penetrant) accumulator now and right along or will never come off without busting things! AYOR if not doing that with the job?

Side note: Cold country where I am so trick for long life of A/C like these is disable them for Winter. They come on for defrost/defog, leak thru shafts when super cold now and expect it to - the problem is oil doesn't move both that cold or low charge so wrecks compressor. Just unplug LPCO switch. Allow them to run now and then off season as possible just long enough to lube and shut it down again. Not everyone can do that nor have stuff this old still working.

Other: I'm NOT a fan of reman compressors! See what you can find it's been a while either brick and mortar place or on line once the parent of this site was getting my stuff no longer in biz. Ask away I can compare exactly to my own, did another was a '96 same thing. Good luck,

[VAND]

Hi Tom and thanks for the welcome. My system is working fine but I have a leak at the hose on the hi pressure side where it connects to the muffler on the condenser side of the muffler. I am going to replace the hoses from the compressor and I wanted to add a little oil since there was oil on the hose (1" to 2") where the leak was.
Should I even worry about this small amount of oil?
If so, what type of oil should I use and how much?
I'm in Southern California. Thanks for the info.

[Tom Greenleaf]

Oil: Drain out of parts replaced any you can and measure it . Yes to adding at least 2oz (OE is PAG 150) if not done over many years is OK anyway. KEEP TRACK there's no dipstick for it only symptoms of way too low or much. Write that Underhood, silver Sharpie or something permanent.

Funny - So. Cal. I call that from other side. That's why this is even still around, things rust out before sold here! Not funny.

Other stuff on this: Seriously watch out for high side port! Why? Most new were the silly ball valve and leak if touched! So don't. You can do all thru low only but do have real good or new OE quality caps are the final seal not just decorations.

Wow - yours still working too. Of all things knowing the ones you own and drive beat all. Yes you can (at least I can and do all the time) tweak up system like this sometimes just touch, feel and infrared temp of lines while running I know it's low it freaking OLD.

Do out that PB on threads NOW for any hoses alum (alloy) metal to alloy even So. Cal. dang metal self welds itself. No need IMO do more than fix the proven leak can help avoid busting things make a wild project out of what should be nothing as A/C goes.

Add oil in downstream side before charge and vacuum and a bit upstream careful not to choke it with going to fast with anything with ports so close as this one especially. Hmmm - spin by hand first you could get a clue before running it.

Good luck again I seriously don't think you'll need it just do everything right and no mistake this should be a cake walk as things go,

(the edit to clarify more about oil - first line)

[VAND]

There are a few diff hoses to choose from. 4 Seasons with a 120 day warranty, Global Parts Distributors with a 12 month warranty, UAC with a 12 month warranty. All prices are in the $40 range each. Then there is ACDelco 24 month warranty for $87. What would be best to use?

Should I use blue or red Nylog or Anti Seize on the threads when putting together?

When you said, "Add oil in downstream side before charge and vacuum and a bit upstream", does downstream = condenser and upstream = acc/drier?

Thanks again.

[Tom Greenleaf]

Oil again: Idea is have some ready upstream (low pressure items, return lines/items and in compressor) - downstream I mean high side. This one, not all just because ports is so close to compressor makes me nervous to choke it. Choke = Hydraulic lock up trying to compress a liquid. Avoid that.

Parts choice and warranty? Warranty means nothing IMO these prices are dirt cheap the whole system is at risk go for best you can get. Nylog? Read which if you want that or I've used (still have stuff known good and pure) "Dynatex PURE SILICONE GREASE, sold for brake parts use! Toothpaste like tube is costly but lasts ages use sparingly for threads of alloys or anything. Totally rubber friendly and waterproof. Tolerates very high and low temps too by nature.

Other generic use by brand is the silver aluminum colored by Permatex, brush in cap anti-seize. Handles OMG high temps not for rubber just metal to metal things - threads in particular. Autozone, NAPA or places like that store brands should be fine on that one. Those things if you work on vehicles and things in general just have on hand.

Trying to show pics will later computer giving me fits (nothing new) and helpful links.

Final charge: WELL held full vacuum! Nothing short of that. That's 29.92 Hg @ sea level by gauges will show 30 ask if at altitude.

Seriously know your equipment is working and not the cause of any mistakes.

Temps known any which way you can trust everything about final performance is temp/pressure, when and where a condensable gas does it changes of state gas to liquid back to gaseous at what pressure.

Water or moisture is a total enemy! Humidity too. Keep products out of that if applicable.

Back with a link that may help from another site I'm at the original for this site has been scooped up had all info right here gone that I know of. Bear with me again this format isn't giving me notices you posted on this to know there's a new one I have to just check,

[Tom Greenleaf]

I'll make this new to add pics and links that may help.

Procedures: http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Autom...YSTEMS_P45460/

Silicone grease: Dynatex both for brake and electric use >

Permatex aluminum anti seize >

Will add pics as possible, many may not show?

[Cusser]

I would add some UV dye when I add the oil; personally, I've purchased refrigeration oil that already contained UV dye and used that for my last two compressor replacements.

[VAND]

Tom,
I will be using my White Industries 1234XL A/C machine (RRR) The hoses I'm replacing are the ones that connect the Low side (acc/drier) and High side (condenser) to the compressor. Both hoses have a muffler about 3-6" from the High and Low gauge connections.

My A/C machine can only add oil to the system after the vacuum pump has pulled full vacuum and then stoped. I think it might add the oil into the Low pressure side, but I'm not sure.

When you said, "Add oil in downstream side before charge and vacuum and a bit upstream" In this situation, how should I add the oil into the system?

[Tom Greenleaf]

Sounds good. Just this one low port is close so spin out hub of compressor just to make sure it's not locked and should just anyway. It needs the oil the rest of items don't. Do hold the full vacuum if in doubt do it again.

The critical spot is first run have as much to exact amount of refrigerant in as your equipment allows will stall when pressures are equal source or vehicle. Other is push it in machines that count it no available to most.

So, first start have A/C at dash set to run and when you see cooler air coming out of vents (use center vents for tests) the oil is circulating. If tricky to get exact amount from there you can go slow just take the trouble not to put too much in and if constantly connecting/disconnecting hoses do spit out any possible plain air that could get in hose ends.

Test drives and turns finish off knowing it's right the temp blows stable finally vs outside ambient temp if humidity and should do this when warm enough will produce condensate you are done. Put caps on, clean up and call it done. Keep the thermos in center vent if it goes steadily warmer other than quicker fluctuations go look for why the # 1 reason is it's leaking somewhere maybe not even where you were or what you did just know it so you can tend to it,

[VAND]

Looking for what the torque is for the bolt that holds down the hoses on the compressor.

Thanks again.

[Tom Greenleaf]

Yikes, that's a critical question and am not sure there's a listed torque spec. I plain don't know. Huh, just the term "snug enough" doesn't really cut it does it? With known clean threads and a direct shot straight on with your tools that YOU know I don't can basically say tighten till you feel it stop getting resistance to do more and quit there.

Another spot for a disaster if you overtighten much of anything. Your call I use at least a smear or drop of a silicone lube for especially anything with alloys so they don't weld stuck quickly and can. Items should be of the same temperature actually matters,