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2007 Lincoln Town Car - AC warmer when moving, Cooler when idling

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  • #16
    Just an update. My accumulator is very rusty so I've decided to replace it.
    It's a known weak link on these cars due to it's location. It's susceptible to road salt.
    Will take a week or so to get here.
    Will keep you posted.
    Will I have to add oil if I replace the accumulator?

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    • #17
      Accumulator will be a total fight if "road salt" on alloys can be like aluminum welded! Busting everything a total nightmare. Put PB (power blaster) on threads last week (joke) so it can help in removal.
      Always a question with A/C repairs is how much oil and where. Basically educated guessing unless every last part is known empty flushed or new.

      Drain what you can out of parts. Drill holes in ones that could trap it and measure all you got OUT. In systems that list about 8oz of oil it's OK to replace what you got out plus a couple then mark that you did under-hood for later reference.

      Yes to adding oil to new accumulator if you do in fact do it at all a snag is if you do you can bust things if you don't you lose warranty - roll the dice?

      Oil is for compressor so you want added oil upstream or low side by the quick time it can cool (pressures will show it could) it only then really moves oil along just know there's only so much "grace" time with oil put in a compressor or right there till you are circulating oil with compressor engaged at first it goes dry. How long do you have?

      Not all the long - a minute is a lot IMO. Seconds best at first start up of system.

      Accumulator is upstream so put just some the rest of added oil in line returning back to compressor,

      Tom
      MetroWest, Boston

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      • #18
        Ok, here's my really late update. I'm just now getting around to replacing my accumulator.

        I picked up a 4 Seasons 83044 accumulator. I will replace it, along with all O-rings and the orifice tube.
        I'm using Nylog Blue on the O-rings.

        When I took the cycling switch off the old accumulator, I noticed it has 2 O-rings on the port. One in the groove and then another.
        I know the previous owner had it replaced once. It's OEM.

        The new accumulator came with one o-ring installed on the port.

        My question is, should there be 2 O-rings there?

        thanks


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        • #19
          Not to my knowledge, just one. The primary seal is the taper, the o ring keeps dirt out of the threads.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Cornbinder89 View Post
            Not to my knowledge, just one. The primary seal is the taper, the o ring keeps dirt out of the threads.
            Thanks, that's what I thought. Didn't make sense to me.
            I also thought if it needed 2 O-rings 4 seasons would have put 2 on instead of just the one.

            Sure not impressed with the ford dealer that the po used.
            I've noticed lots of poor repairs.

            Now I just have to figure out how much oil leaked out on my basement floor when the old one fell over so I can I add the right amount!

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            • #21
              Thread is OLD now and still at this. Bet the 2 "O" rings are one from a cap or hose hook up the stuck.
              Oil lost topic: Guess at it by how much mess. Oddly doesn't take much to make a large spot on a floor depending on floor material,
              Tom
              MetroWest, Boston

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Tom Greenleaf View Post
                Thread is OLD now and still at this. Bet the 2 "O" rings are one from a cap or hose hook up the stuck.
                Oil lost topic: Guess at it by how much mess. Oddly doesn't take much to make a large spot on a floor depending on floor material,
                Yes thread is old. I parked the vehicle and just got back to it now that I don't have anything else to do.
                Good call on where that extra o-ring came from.
                I used a large putty knife to get most of the spilled oil off the floor.
                I added that to what I drained out of the old accumulator and it came to 4 to 4.5 oz.
                If I add 2 oz to that it would bring me to 6.5 oz and total capacity is 7 oz.
                Would the compressor only have 1/2 an oz in it?

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                • #23
                  I don't have a lot of guidance other than to say more compressors have been lost to lack of oil than too much. I am fortunate that most of my stuff has a way to check the oil level, even if not convenient.
                  The accumulator should have hole in the bottom of the U tube (inside) to draw oil that has settled there to be returned to the compressor. If that got plugged the bottom of the accumulator may fill with the oil and not return.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Cornbinder89 View Post
                    I don't have a lot of guidance other than to say more compressors have been lost to lack of oil than too much. I am fortunate that most of my stuff has a way to check the oil level, even if not convenient.
                    The accumulator should have hole in the bottom of the U tube (inside) to draw oil that has settled there to be returned to the compressor. If that got plugged the bottom of the accumulator may fill with the oil and not return.
                    I guess I was worried about adding too much oil. Didn't know what the consequences would be.
                    Last edited by tcclav; 05-04-2020, 01:14 PM.

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                    • #25
                      A little too much will reduce the heat transfer in the condenser and evaporator as oil lines the walls of the tubes. A whole lot too much can "slug" the compressor (hyd lock) with liquid in the cyl.. It is my position that double the systems oil will likely only reduce the cooling, 1/2 the systems oil could starve the compressor, esp if it one that relies on "splash lubrication".
                      Id try and get it right, but if I'm going to err, it is on the side of too much not too little.
                      I guess I am lucky, as my stuff has a way to check the amount of oil.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Cornbinder89 View Post
                        A little too much will reduce the heat transfer in the condenser and evaporator as oil lines the walls of the tubes. A whole lot too much can "slug" the compressor (hyd lock) with liquid in the cyl.. It is my position that double the systems oil will likely only reduce the cooling, 1/2 the systems oil could starve the compressor, esp if it one that relies on "splash lubrication".
                        Id try and get it right, but if I'm going to err, it is on the side of too much not too little.
                        I guess I am lucky, as my stuff has a way to check the amount of oil.
                        That helps, thank you. I didn't realize that 1 or 2 ounces too much would only impact the cooling. I was afraid it might slug it.
                        I'll add another ounce then.

                        On a positive note, with the clutch cycling switch removed the system has held vacuum for 18 hours and only lost a few units of vacuum.

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                        • #27
                          Yes as already said. Too much "refrigerant" will begin to screw up, go warmer. A couple oz too much oil in this car not so much.

                          This overcharge if so would show as pressures off. Also if you drove and opened windows and really worked the A/C it might read (use thermometer in center vent) read about right.

                          For most it's hard to remove just a couple ounces and know it. Kinda means start over again to me if highly suspect,
                          Tom
                          MetroWest, Boston

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                          • #28
                            Installed new switch and it held vacuuum all night.
                            Trouble now is that today will reach a high of 55-60 and then it will get cooler than that for the next 10 days.
                            Plan on taking it for a long drive to heat soak the engine bay.
                            Then I'll pull another vacuum and see what happens with two 12 oz cans of R134A.
                            It calls for 23 oz but as pointed out earlier there will be losses.
                            I'm hoping that should be good until it gets warmer and I can test it again.

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                            • #29
                              I know how you feel, 80 a few days ago, 50 now!

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                              • #30
                                Some twit said chance of snow here! Enough problems please! OP (original poster) Posts are many so some things I forgot about so called luxo vehicles this also should have some version of " Automatic Climate Control" to factor in. Most of those will assertively pick up interior air up by passenger's foot area and blow out thru dash up high. With that checking performance you can't have things on the dashboards and it will purposely NOT smoke you out with heat nor A/C to freeze you will slow down airflow or blend to moderate interior temps. OMG, don't ask how many types those could alter interior vent temps or fan speeds. Now since you know 23oz (thanks for that) is the full charge you are golden! Do this with 12oz cans is weigh a couple you'll use new see if they are the same EXACTLY. If you just spit (some new can taps and connectors will not allow you to) some out to purge even that short line of air and I mean just a quick spit out you are at your 23 oz close enough! I have a Town Car but OMG last of same things from 1980>1989 so holds 43oz can be off 2 ounces it wouldn't care. Now look at the difference same size vehicle. It's my experience R-134a really wants within 5% of exact so your two oz matters double what my own would that one still old type gas more tolerant anyway 134a isn't as forgiving. Do the vacuum and charge again the dang product just the other day was like $4.58 as Walmart of all places is pure product or so claims. It's up to you to verify you start from a vacuum that holds to be spot on and just disconnecting lines from a pump you let some air in - that counts too! Carry on I'm in a LOCK DOWN area working on my HUGE mower BTW doesn't have air silly thing! :-)
                                Tom
                                MetroWest, Boston

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