Compressor and Fans cycle approximately every 15 seconds. Is this normal? Low pressure 25 to 30 , High 250-275 Air temp 85 to 90. Had car since new.(214k) Problem is I don't remember what was normal. Best Vent Temp 50 Deg. Compressor Pulley appears to have some oily residue about it. system appeared to be low. Low pressure (25-30, High Pressure 175. I added a little Refrigerant to get pressure up to 250.
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Last edited by Railroader; 09-05-2019, 09:28 PM. -
Oily residue could be anything. Clean and inspect periodically. If only on pulley, probably leaky compressor shaft seal. If in pulley/motor area by it, look for leaky gasket around there.
Low pressure seems to be on the low side to me, but I'm not an expert. The static (at rest) pressure should be close to ambient air temperature from my understanding, so I'd check that. Without knowing exactly how much oil and R134a is actually still in the system, the proper procedure would be to empty it all by recapturing it and then drain/refill oil, pull vac, let it rest an hr, pull vac for another half hour, and refill by WEIGHT.
Backyard way would be to just add about 2-3 ounces at a time and retake temperature readings. Stopping when you get down to low 40's.
It's hard to find a good knowledgeable technician, especially online. Best of luck to you. -
Hmmm, Strange, it's been awhile since I have been on here, but there used to be some very knowledgeable folks on here. Helped me a lot.Originally posted by BSTactics View PostComment
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Some chat and history of what happened that landed this place here in this format:
Quote from Railroader ">Hmmm, Strange, it's been awhile since I have been on here, but there used to be some very knowledgeable folks on here. Helped me a lot.<"
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Just that. It sure did if you recall was ACSource, owned and run by Warren Willingham an A/C supply store in Phoenix, AZ. The forum part was just the mercy of a biz to support issues or problems all about it by actual volunteers most not affiliated with the biz at all includes me coming on in or around 2002 that forum ruled the web for A/C info.
Many thanks to Nacho is a listed member/moderator here with his own biz and site based out of Hermosillo, Senora, MX (sp?) also acquiring parts from Phoenix was practical for him/them.
Archives back to that are now scooped up by another concern and apologize that IDK who or what snagged up those and suspect some mal-intent to sell just that info.
Please know I'm probably the last but not the first here at all came here just found it in search of info led to getting tools and parts thru that store also then what the heck be part of the forum of questions and opinions is was called all about it.
There was quite the fight to keep spammers out and some people who had the time to remove them plus some evil competition with another concern in the same city to grab the sales and steer everyone potentially buying anything to another thought to be hired to do that?
User names only to protect those I knew fairly well or real names of some pretty well known they are now deceased some based on last private messages of health issues!
If you recall ACProf was for real did meet just him in person was indeed a read professor of this trade not just vehicles the physics of it and how it works on to what can and would go wrong over time with wear and tear.
A rush of retrofitting with the end of new production of R-12, Jan. 1993 the last made new by NATO compliant countries with then thought to be the magic and close equivalent the current 134a would also work in the old systems with minimal alterations just put up with less capable systems but better than nothing at all.
Know that car makers didn't all make all new components for a while rather just was already retrofitted with the components made for R-12 just change the listed weight of charge and type of rubber products used for hoses and seals to be of "barrier" type as should be known the molecule is smaller would leak right thru new rubber without changing the type.
Site had GM Tech, another total pro at this sport if you will based out of Dayton, OH. IDK where he went. His name was John Davis of Jacksonville, FL had a host of great ideas shared his experience freely did in fact pass away. That is/was his name not user name now escapes me.
Others supporting this included many more may be archived thru believed to be the late John Hess of COOL PROFIT$ magazine printed out of his home in Petaluma, CA.
Good luck - I can't find him did subscribe to that magazine did just stop coming without answers as to why?
Onward to now: It's credit to Chris Bede for setting up this spot as it exists now at my request perhaps mattered not to lose a good thing yet keep it totally free to use without any mal-intent or pushing sales of anything. That has become an oxymoron all by itself with current web activity of all kinds. Bummer.
Back to just this thread: '99 Honda Accord with over 200k was it? Yes the shaft seals are the weak spot for plain leaks. It's just hard to contain a gas under high pressures with a seal on a moving shaft with wild temperature changes over the course of a year plus heat from an engine the range is just incredible.
Yes to the suggestion of oily evidence is a good clue if you can rule out another source of oil being there. Those do NOT always leak may only leak when cool/cold and seal up when warm making proof difficult that it is in fact the culprit to a leaker.
I'll just caution that re-built compressors is still AYOR as to what you get or what was done seriously doubt most are "good as new" ever again. Location of them is rarely up front and getting flow of cool air over it rather stuffed where it will fit in ever tighter room for engines and all other needed accessories all take a hit.
The first step when performance is reduced and pressures do not fit within rough ranges of what's expected is to charge into a vacuum the known charge by weight if that restores performance at least some confidence that it's not an assortment of other problems other than low charge.
Despite this being now 20 years old it's still VERY dependent on sensors for ambient temp of air, air coming in thru grille, temperature of an engine and the RPMs it can turn at without slipping.
Anything needs a starting point to rule out other problems. This and many can hold computer codes that can help tell of which circuit is sensing what plus if there's a problem noted with that circuit. Codes still do NOT tell what the exact problem is rather the area to test out.
Carry on chasing this down if stuck with an area that isn't behaving I an share my thoughts on what and where to look for the troubles,Tom
MetroWest, BostonComment
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Fans should not cycle every few seconds; suspect the fans should all be running full time when AC is switched on.Comment
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I discovered both charge ports are leaking, so that might be the reason for the appearance of a low charge on my gauges. I have the tools to replace the cores without discharging the system. I have a recovery machine, vacuum pump, refrigerant scales, micron meter etc. so I can do what is needed. I drove it today however and vent temp is down to 40 deg. I think that is great. I still don't like the cycling at max fan speed, and max temp setting. I know the recycling is to keep the system from freezing at low fan speedOriginally posted by Railroader View PostComment
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Good caps are important to seal the service valves. Cores do leak.Originally posted by Railroader View Post
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I didn't mean to get anyone worked up over a few little words. Just sharing my experience. I've asked here, on gm pcm sites, on jbody sites, and a few other places as well and nobody can seem to point me in the right direction as to where/what I should check out next. I'll probably end up buying some high dollar scanner at Christmas time so I can determine what pressure my pcm is reading. I was just hoping not to. /Not trying to hijack the thread. Back to main issue::Comment
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