• Login is located in the upper right corner of all pages.


No announcement yet.

Ac problems

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Ac problems

    Hello all, I am having a heck of a time here and thought why not ask some pro’s. I have a 2006 Dodge Ram with a 5.9 Cummins. No relays on the truck only 1 10 amp fuse and it’s ran by the TIPM (total integrated power module). I have been running around for 4 years with no AC. I have taken the truck to GM service (my brother is a service writer there), to see if they can point it out. They were very unfamiliar with the system. So, I have come to find out the high/low pressure switch is bad. (Only 1 switch for both on this truck). So I jumped the switch at the connector, now I have power going to the compressor ONLY when the connection is unplugged. When I plug it into the compressor the power goes away. I checked the compressor and have 5 ohms on it. And no continuity from power wire or ground wire of the compressor to the body of compressor or frame. Would a bad compressor coil make the TIPM cut power to the supply? I’m in deep here haha. Thank you.

    I also should add that the Freon level is good and I have jumped the compressor from the battery to test it and it engages and works.


      Ok, you may have done some serious damage by jumping that SENSOR, it is not a switch. Most modern stuff doesn't use simple switches anymore, they use a sensor connected to a controller, that makes outputs based on what the sensor is telling it.
      In one case it would change the high pressure cut-out function based on road speed! These systems are not simple anymore.
      So you may have a bad sensor, or you may have burned the controller, but either way you need a manual to tell what the readings should be
      New automotive is not my strong suit, I am more of a heavy truck/ag guy.
      Like anything else on a "computer controlled" car you shouldn't even use a test light on stuff, a digital meter, and or scanner are a must.
      Most sensors run on 5 volts or less, and the output is almost never 5 or 0 volts but is something in between depending on what is happening in the system. At least you didn't feed 12 volts into it!


        Rockauto shows a three terminal "pressure transducer" for the A/C.

        If your a gambling man, you could do worse than taking a chance on replacing the transducer, not very expensive and can be changed without loss of refrigerant, judging by the "core depressor" in the pictures of it.
        Last edited by Cornbinder89; 02-28-2020, 09:51 AM. Reason: added info


          Just the best guess suggestion for this with TIPM a Mopar thing. Yes, some want to know position of sun visors and cut a wire to one the show stops!
          The test equipment would be available to all but so costly will force you go a now Fiat/Chrysler dealer for clear code readings on what items are reporting back to that thing or no info is also info oddly it's lost communication.

          Any vehicle of any type for any reason DON'T GO JUMPING THINGS AS Cornbinder said especially this one. That can be useful for testing items on a workbench not when installed.

          That if it did or didn't already cause harm my impede getting info so head for the dealer that sells these new now should have the readers you need and pays the monthly fee to keep that alive so expect and ASK up front how much to get a comprehensive code reading of the system and or any faults it shows now and make decisions from there,

          MetroWest, Boston


            Is there a junior college with an automotive dept. ? Maybe they could troubleshoot it and give you some information about the problem.or maybe even fix it for a nominal fee !


              Yes, no, maybe just about "Junior College" for automotives? I went to the first doubt totally it would or could exist that same way now.

              This is about equipment costs and short courses to train how to do or use specific equipment, That takes aspects of a trade OUT and away from all but larger concerns. In this case TMK if you want to be a "New Car/Brand Dealership" you MUST be able to deal with about anyting possible with that brand for "X" amount of model years or you ARE not a dealer rather an independent shop.

              Yes, some will be able to go so far for costs but frequently quit at some point.

              There's an ongoing issue about whether a brand name of a vehicle in this case can dictate that ONLY they alone can get that work or buy the equipment, software and or subscriptions to that do all for that brand excluding others.

              The base company should be setting up any specific training for those type thing and issue the certificate you are in fact trained to do that part of XYZ.

              That is not mechanical is a biz move to capture back biz the "Car Makers" in this case is losing and hates it to the "aftermarket" is as old as the hills to become the only show in town type thing and push anyone else out never was or is a great thing for the consumer.

              Sorry for any typos but that's the best I can explain it is an ongoing issue,
              MetroWest, Boston


                The real fight is taking place in the Ag market. Deere has all but locked down the software needed to work on their stuff. Some Farmers are getting so fed up they are paying illegal "hackers" to break into the software, others are shopping for more friendly companies. When a multi-thousand dollar machine goes down during harvest, and the dealer say it will take a week or more to get to it, and it has to be dragged out of the field and to the shop, something has to give.
                Automotive always had some sort of agreement preventing the above from happening. The mfg released "limited" access to the software, while keeping some tests and functions "dealer only". Often truck engines can be "uprated" in the Hp dept with just a software change, but only the dealer can access that option.
                As I said before, this is not a simple switch but a transducer, and it might be worth buying one and seeing if that will work, not much expense and simple to do. If the control is bad, then you are looking at a trip to the dealer and some money.
                Community College's can't offer much in specific brands or even systems. They would be limited to checking pressures and taking the very same stab at what I recommend.


                  Especially if you still have the old dial-type thermostats, they could be incorrectly calibrated, which means your air conditioner isn’t getting the right instructions from the control system. This problem is fairly easy to fix by replacing or recalibrating your thermostats. If you have new programmable thermostats, sometimes these are tricky to program and they may be set incorrectly. If you still have the manual, check the instructions to make sure your thermostat’s settings are correct.


                    IMO - If you have a GOOD and trusted non programmable one keep it! Another mess the dang "programable" ones have a battery or screw up the old one didn't! No the old one you can't mess with on your way home from work crap it that lazy or trust it's working or going to for long "drink the Kool-Aid" it's yummy.

                    The older one is the higher the chance is you can adjust it with a tiny screw + leave it alone another whole couple generations! New fails you bust pipes in Winter, or in cooling season if away maybe if a safety issue risk that. ALL OVER A STUPID CHEAP BATTERY! You're call,
                    MetroWest, Boston


                      There is a possibility that the controller has been burned or the sensor is just bad and not functioning. You can check the manual if you have it handy, that might be able to find out if either of this is true and keeping your air conditioner from functioning.

                      If the TIPM has problems starting up, you can try resetting it by removing the ignition key, removing both the negative cable and the positive cable from the battery, make sure the power is drained from both these cables and the two cables never touch the battery, after about 10 minutes try reconnecting the two cables. Now you can try starting the vehicle and see if it is working properly.

                      But if the air conditioner is blowing hot air, it is probably because of the compressor clutch solenoid. When these start to get worn, the electrical current is also requried to go up and this might go beyond the maximum output of the TIPM. The compressor clutch itself is not serviceable. You can try and solve this by installing a separate current path for the clutch oil and then make use of the truck’s factory wiring to trigger the relay. This will result into the system not noticing the increased load that the clutch can sometimes pull and thus won’t turn it off. You may also contact professional air conditioning service london providers such as Hamilton Air Conditioner Ltd for the further help to resolve the issue with your Ac unit.