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2014 hyundai accent

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  • 2014 hyundai accent

    A/C not working clutch will not engage. DVE12 compressor type, getting command from head unit . back probe power , battery voltage . Tried to jump compressor with power probe 12 v and ground with compressor wire not plugged in to harness . I here a slight clunk but no a/c cooling has full charge of refrigerant

  • #2
    Without doing any delving into what it has, DVE in the compressor model is likely a variable displacement compressor V for variable?
    We often see these stuck in low output and no cooling is the result.
    How have you verified "full charge of refrigerant"?


    • #3
      Ok, doing a quick internet search, it doesn't a clutch and is a variable displacement compressor.
      You may already have fried the control valve by applying full voltage to it.
      It is a prime reason not to go poking around with the newer computer stuff without a manual.
      Most manuals are available on line or for download.
      The control valve is replaceable on the bench, requires discharging the gas, and replacing the valve. $60-$90 for the valve, IF that is what is causing the problem.
      Compressor around $260.
      The labor is going to be the same, and before dropping that much on it I would consult a manual to be sure that the is problem.
      I am not saying it is the problem, only that we have seen a lot of variable displacement compressors or valves cause a no cool problem.
      You didn't provide any pressures so we can't see if it is even compressing a little, which it most often does with a bad valve.


      • #4
        I evacuated 4 oz and filled 15oz


        • #5
          TSB # 14-HA-001 for diagnosis... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...15697-9999.pdf
          Last edited by CTA; 07-19-2022, 12:31 PM.


          • Cornbinder89
            Cornbinder89 commented
            Editing a comment
            Great stuff thanks. You were typing while I was typing.

        • #6
          Did you fix were it leaked? If there was only 4 oz to start, then there was a leak somewhere to begin with.
          These new variable displacement systems are very un forgiving. They use "pressure transducers" not pressure switches and a controller that controls the effective displacement of the compressor.
          Totally gone are the days where you can jump things to get the compressor to compress.
          Naturally, every part has become more expensive and complex. I have even seen in a manual where the max pressure allowed is tied to the vehicles forward speed! It makes it almost imposable to diagnose without a manual. A control limit that varies with road speed? that will send you chasing your tail if you don't know about it!
          Last edited by Cornbinder89; 07-19-2022, 12:47 PM.


          • #7
            Originally posted by rodargie
            I evacuated 4 oz and filled 15oz
            ? Quite the read with the TSB about this issue.
            Please tell us you read off a sticker (about all vehicles) that 15oz is the full charge and you were able to put that exact amount in.

            TSB said at idle this should show 130 PSI is low to me for normal so learning myself as this goes on.

            If that's what it can deal with so be it.

            Just concurring with Cornbinder DO NOT go jumping things to power them it's just too easy to fry stuff even though it was disconnected from whole system still don't.

            A question based on what was said charging this. IF you only recovered (removed) 4oz of refrigerant it wasn't empty or leaked out.

            No system especially that low capacity is going to behave off much so how did only 4oz come out? A leak would be the Home reason. If found low that leak unless some mistake hooking up has to be found the fixed,
            MetroWest, Boston


            • #8
              Tom, the way I read the TSB is high side should be greater than 130 with A/C called for. I think they are just looking for the compressor to be turning, at that point. IIRC we had a bunch of these variable compressors where they stuck on low displacement and the high side was over 130 and the low was 65-80 or something like that.
              They are not saying that if it is functioning correctly the high side will be 130. I think they are just looking for something above ambient temp/pressure.
              Put another way, if the shear coupling on the pulley has failed, you will not see any pressure rise, if you do, then the compressor is turning. These have no clutch.
              Last edited by Cornbinder89; 07-19-2022, 04:31 PM.


              • #9
                CB89 - Not in my cage, yet? If that coupling failed opens book on where something failed.

                Noticed center bolt (not just hub) must turn. OP has to post observations or we are lost??

                MetroWest, Boston


                • #10
                  Thanks for all the advice the pressure when first hooked up high side was about 80 and low side was 60 . Pressure did not change after charge or change . I did my standard recover , vacuum , and recharge . was not able to find a leak under vacuum and vacuum held for 15 min . Compressor hub bolt seem to be turning at same speed as hub. gauge readings did not fluctuate.


                  • #11
                    OK, pull the compressor (unless you have real good access) and replace the control valve in it. Not expensive as a new compressor and that should resolve the issue
                    Read the TSB link above.
                    Last edited by Cornbinder89; 07-26-2022, 09:33 AM.


                    • #12
                      Does OP have refrigeration machine? Wondering how 4oz was pulled and 15 put back??

                      Use a small parking light bulb as a test light. Or a simple test light. When the compressor is commanded on, you will get a light. Checks all computer logics along with power/ground to run the compressor.

                      On an 8 year old car, I would put a new compressor, receiver/dryer, schraders and possibly a new condenser. Wouldn't add parts to a compressor that old. Probably over 100,000 miles on it. I would freshen the ol' girl up if it was mine.


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by muscle spasm
                        Use a small parking light bulb as a test light. Or a simple test light. When the compressor is commanded on, you will get a light.
                        I installed a dashboard light in two of my trucks to indicate to me when the AC clutch was getting voltage. This helped me diagnose slipping AC clutches in both my 1988 Mazda truck and 1998 Nissan Frontier.