2003 mazde tribute

[paulied]

doing a favor for a friend. 2003 tribute 3.0L he replaced filter/dryer, new o-tube, new compressor and O-rings. he was able to flush out the evap and some hoses, but didn't do anything with condenser. We pulled a vacuum down and held good for 3hrs. Added proper amount of pag 46, some dye put in two 12fl.oz cans no problem. My concern is the high side psi-220-230 low side approx.-30-35psi vent temps at idle 49deg but get warmer as you drive.58deg. 85degrees day

[Nacho]

Flush or replace the condenser. If the previous compressor seized, it is strongly recommended to replace it. The system requires 950 grams of R134a, a lot more than two cans. Make sure both cooling fans run in both high and low speed.

[paulied]

Thanks, I was wondering for now if these psi's look to be within reasonable range...

[Tom Greenleaf]

The pressures do for idle and vehicle setting still. High chances condenser is already part clogged IMO so can't keep up with the BTU for speed which normally would help but since it isn't blame that. I don't have a pic to show how small the passages are to be more efficient which in turn makes them about disposable if debris is involved and probably was which is why Nacho asked how compressor failed.

Do always recharge by known weight for the exact vehicle (if OE parts still) then if off pressures are a good diagnostic tool. Pressure do NOT tell you how much is in a system,

[paulied]

From what the owner told me the compressor didn't fail. When opened the system and removed o-tube, it had very minimal debris on it. Question book calls for 7oz pag 46 and 32oz of 134a, is this correct? thank

[Tom Greenleaf]

Your capacities are correct according to a chart I have. The disclaimer is always go by any under hood info first if other info doesn't all agree.

What can happen is while usually a leak lowers charge the oil if you can't produce "cool" doesn't flow so compressors run dry. They should all default to off much earlier than they do.

Other reason can be a replacement isn't spun on bench with oil to pre-lube it meaning spin them like 20 times for the initial start up when installed it won't be dry. If using the car to pull in refrigerant you have to be ridiculously fast or in the same jam as before right away!

[paulied]

One last thing to clarify for my own thought. If the book says 32oz of Freon, is that by weight or fl. oz..I put two 12oz cans in as of now, that's it the compressor came with required oil in as per factory tag, and yes we did think to pre-spin it. Thank you

[Tom Greenleaf]

You are going by weight of the liquid refrigerant. If using little cans just weight them on a postage scale for example by brand the "tare" weight of one brand of those is 3.2 oz. just the can, no tap or hose. See if new ones are correct! Dag nabbit bought out a Wallyworld tent sale of the things for a buck (same pure product only stuff) so do use it even thru a pro gauge set.

Hey - the equipment that can measure to the gram what comes out and just tell it what to put into a well held vacuum is very costly for DIY use or many shops my sign off says New England is cold most of the year you don't need all your A/C stuff in the way or too much of it unless you do it enough. It's too dang cold to store the equipment or products and most shops wouldn't heat the whole shop much over 50F is not time to work with the refrigerant side of A/C problems and know performance is on target,

[paulied]

excellent, I think I may invest in a scale. Thanks for all the help....

[Tom Greenleaf]

Search around for what will work for your needs. Real nice if you can know to fractions of an ounce but at least by the ounce. There are A/C specific scales will hold the common 30lb bottle on up. Just the math of "tare" weight" of containers and anything attached think if that could confuse your estimate.

Funny but not you had me going with weight and how measured. It's weight - not a volume measurement you are after. Do the math again if a vehicle has a know original sticker on like a radiator support and know that's what came with that vehicle new or if another sticker was placed for a part fixed before you that changed the known amounts it's just nice to mark that vehicle of any changes.

Just know with A/C knowing you have the correct charge is critical and first then all other diagnosis can be useful info if or when it's not working as expected,