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  • #16
    Originally posted by sixputt View Post
    Don't have a clue where to buy dry ice ?
    Some grocery stores sell it by the pound; ask them.


    Originally posted by sixputt View Post
    I also tried the test on the clutch fan. I found a piece of thin cardboard and folded it up like you mentioned on the newspaper. I did stop the fan after it was running long enough to get hot.
    Replace the fan clutch.


    At 221K, my 1998 Frontier AC has had R134a added once (by me) and got a pinhole in the high side hose a few months ago (accelerated possibly by high pressures from its bad fan clutch). Its AC works great in Arizona heat too.



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    • #17
      Ditto on replace the clutch just anyway. Many lose it in 5 years. Once a choice of a type that seemed to just stay at 80% (a guess) of speed of belt hot or cold works real well but annoyingly noisy/busy sound all the time.

      Infrared for a condenser with engine running and any air blowing around results will be awful hard to count on. Essentially doesn't matter how you cool condenser the "in" temp has to leave markedly cooler no matter how you do it and noted the water worked does suggest no complete blockage and a partial might get cold right there if tube and fin never saw one just block up.

      Also note by my location a real truck of any sort around this year or older never came with A/C it was to work with - any toys didn't make any sense. Usually seeking out load ability.

      Not many "plain" pick-up trucks around new anymore at all full of toys, 4dr ones everywhere now too. Haven't seen any now w/o A/C a total switch,
      Tom
      MetroWest, Boston

      Comment


      • #18
        I put the clutch fan on today and also added the one 12 oz can of R12 to the truck. The site glass finally cleared up.

        I watched my pressure reading and the high side shot up to 250 pretty quick. I held the throttle down for a good while but could never get the vent temp to come up 70 or the high side to drop below 240. When I was first connecting the low side to charge the system I did notice a large amount of oil coming out so I just let some more out. This system may have had too much oil in it from the last time I worked on it and that was years ago. . Maybe large amounts of oil was what was stopping this system from working ?

        Anyway I was watching the pressure while holding the throttle to around 2000 RPM's. The high side stayed high for some time and then all of sudden I noticed it begin to fall. Now this is 40 minutes after I put the Freon in. Don't know why but it begin to cool. I had the vents on low and watched as it dropped to 40 degrees and pressures were fine. On the way to my house the temps were between 40 and 50. I can live with that as it was a very humid day here but the sun never showed up. I also know it had to be working good because of all the water that came out of drain tube.

        I don't have a clue what made it start working correct. Same thing I had before I installed the clutch fan and freon but like I said it did finally start to work. I don't know how long but for now I am leaving it be. THANKS for the help on this.

        Comment


        • #19
          A wet system can give you fits, as ice forms then melts the pressures can go all over the map. Kinda sounds like what is happening. Either that or the Tx valve was stuck and then freed itself.

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          • #20
            Wow - 40 minutes and seem now it just working I might also say Tx valve snapped to on it's own.

            The new fan clutch may also be very old stock and have oil in it. Those should be stored in box setting as it would in the vehicle or some would say or have arrows at least face/front down not the other way or they don't work properly or worse those leak out oil. There's a chance it took a while to get used to itself?

            The oil thought overcharged? I doubt that's overcharged for years on end without some symptoms if so. If you are going to hook up for pressure checks or any reason I suggest putting a quick connect on that port - some fussy threaded ports by location and condition hose and fitting take too long in that zone of leaking before sealed tight or back off - not too much of that or mess up how much you lost and knowing it.

            If ice is happening as Cornbinder89 mentioned it could in some situations but notice slowly lower air volume out vents and when stopped or shut down a huge puddle of water not just normal condensate (water too) can all be telling or observed and does make things erratic.

            This is exposed to very high humidity obviously a lot of the time. It doesn't stay that humid where I am very long or often but does.

            Interesting site for you altitude, weather forecast, current weather observed local to you I use lot is also handy. It's here but may be blank waiting for you to put in a zip code for yourself or the closest you want to where working on this or just anyway..........

            > http://www.intellicast.com/Local/Wea...ation=USMA0235 <

            Check that out - live radar there also. Good info along with your own devices I find very helpful. Good luck with this truck and think there's isn't too much more I would do right now while working with a sight glass showing good would stop messing with it just leave thermos in a vent you can glance at now and then when using it,
            Tom
            MetroWest, Boston

            Comment


            • #21
              Ice I was referring to was inside the system. If it has moisture in the refrigerant, it can form ice in and around the Tx valve and cause all kinds of weird pressure readings. If that is the problem then it needs to be evacuated and new drier installed.

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              • #22
                I see no way moisture got in this system being it has not been opened up in over 10 years. It has worked perfect since I installed the TX Valve and I just about know it was 2004 from my records.. I put a new drier on it back then and pulled a vacuum for an hour so I don't think that would be possible. It worked this afternoon when I took it for spin. Vent temps were 40 degrees but today was a typical Alabama day as it was overcast but that old humidity was pushing 100 % most of the day

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by sixputt View Post
                  Don't know why but it begin to cool. I had the vents on low and watched as it dropped to 40 degrees and pressures were fine. On the way to my house the temps were between 40 and 50.

                  I don't have a clue what made it start working correct. I don't know how long but for now I am leaving it be. THANKS for the help on this.
                  Nothing wrong with those vent temperatures; here in Arizona summers my '98 and 2004 Frontiers need the AC shut off periodically or heat added as I get too cold (I'm not saying 2 minutes after getting into sun-parked truck here though).

                  So I agree: don't touch anything if it continues to work, keep us informed of the situation.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Its still not working correct. This morning I drove it to get some coffee and the vent temp was right at 40 degree but the outside temps were only in the 70's. It was still blowing mist out of the vents enough though it cooling. I took it for a ride this afternoon when the temperature was right at 90 and the lowest I can get the vent is 60 degrees. I didn't bother to connect the gauges but I am betting the high side was up up up When I got back to my house I could accelerate it and got it down to 55 degrees. That just is not going to get it here in Alabama to stay comfortable in this humid and heat. I did noticed while I was driving it a while ago the vent temp did get down to 50 for only a few minutes. I think the system may have moisture in it or maybe too much oil. I use this truck a lot to work out of and I plan on spending what it takes to make it work like new again. .

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                    • #25
                      Think I already asked but again - is condenser and radiator still snug around them with whatever shrouds and flaps that force fan to pull air only thru them? Has to all be there and tight. New or not fan clutch you plan witness it pulling strong as warm air at it should be grabbing well if both engine hot and added heat from condenser both.

                      Some will say when just after shutting down engine the heat build up under the hood fans on a thermostatic clutch if you spun it shouldn't do a whole revolution. When cold it should almost go free.

                      I don't mean paper holding to front trick I mean feel the heat blowing off with hood open then up and over engine as well.

                      Is the 'x' valve how that done still sealed not confused by any putty or what you used when done last time is that still good?
                      Where are temps (forget pressures for a bit) tough and feel or touchless thermometers (infrared) when this happens. Temp after valve to evap temp and outlet temp should be real close.

                      You still are thinking excessive oil? Where along the way if you've owned it so long could that happen? It could if so accumulate low in the condenser making it less area to exchange heat then maybe move along and behave and drive anyone nuts if intermittent.

                      Still question air flow. Water if carrying a spray bottle of water to mist condenser or squirt at it and see if an area doesn't evaporate the water away fast at all the temp isn't there as much and humid or not should evaporate water off in sight while operating at last faster at inlet and higher slower lower and headed out.

                      No question the moisture if really the problem just messes up refrigerant's properties. Unless careless with any charging and vacuuming system holding that charge only displaced by refrigerant if done properly where would it come from.

                      OMG - if you have somehow the bad luck of refrigerant that's not what is says it is all bets off on behaviors.

                      Mentioned I think if not part of the show as well is blend doors with foam or felt in ducts another for fresh or recirculated air if not sealing or 'actuated' to be in place for any reason could also explain the erratic behavior. Been a while but have seen where doors pivot wear out housing and just not tight in any position but move till then totally don't and make the problem clear if so,
                      Tom
                      MetroWest, Boston

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by sixputt View Post
                        I put the clutch fan on today and also added the one 12 oz can of R12 to the truck. The site glass finally cleared up.

                        I watched my pressure reading and the high side shot up to 250 pretty quick. I held the throttle down for a good while but could never get the vent temp to come up 70 or the high side to drop below 240. When I was first connecting the low side to charge the system I did notice a large amount of oil coming out so I just let some more out. This system may have had too much oil in it from the last time I worked on it and that was years ago. . Maybe large amounts of oil was what was stopping this system from working ?

                        Anyway I was watching the pressure while holding the throttle to around 2000 RPM's. The high side stayed high for some time and then all of sudden I noticed it begin to fall. Now this is 40 minutes after I put the Freon in. Don't know why but it begin to cool. I had the vents on low and watched as it dropped to 40 degrees and pressures were fine. On the way to my house the temps were between 40 and 50. I can live with that as it was a very humid day here but the sun never showed up. I also know it had to be working good because of all the water that came out of drain tube.

                        I don't have a clue what made it start working correct. Same thing I had before I installed the clutch fan and freon but like I said it did finally start to work. I don't know how long but for now I am leaving it be. THANKS for the help on this.
                        I'm still wondering about the condenser. After running for 20 min, the heat-load is going to go down somewhat. I am wondering if condenser is not up to snuff.
                        You now should have good airflow over the condenser, What are your pressures? What happens when you mist the condenser?
                        If pressures are still erratic, I would pull the system down, replace the Tx and drier. If the pressures are steady but high, then I would look to diagnose further. erratic pressures would say that something is acting erratically inside the system, and there are very few things that can do that, Tx valve is one , compressor is another, I would rather it be a Tx valve.

                        Comment


                        • #27

                          Quote ::::
                          You still are thinking excessive oil? Where along the way if you've owned it so long could that happen?

                          Because when I put the TX valve and drier in it about 10 plus years ago I may have put too much oil in it by mistake. I just know when I charged it last week there was more oil that came out of the low side charge valve that I thought should be. It did start this blowing mist out the vents a few months ago but I just ignored it until it got really hot here and then the cooling was not that good. I thought it was freezing up but I am not sure that is the case now. I didn't connect the gauges today because it was so hot outside I didn't feel like messing with it. I will check the things you both mentioned and report back. I did find a 30 pound can of R12 from a friend who owes me big time and he said come and get it. Now to decide what exactly what I am going to do first

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                          • #28
                            I also thought about the vent doors leaking heat into the cab. One of the controls seems stuck I but I think I may have got it but need to check closer. I remember the last time I worked on this truck AC the warm air lever would never move all the way to the left. I pushed in it hard last week and to be honest I am not sure if I might have broke something. It has been in a bind ever since I did the AC work years ago but was throwing snowballs until this summer. More later when I check the things you both mentioned. Tom

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Just a focus on the oil: I can't see how if too much 10 years ago was the last chance for it to be too much lasted 10 years without a problem and now is? NO. Placement of ports and last time system ran time when hooding up again matters. It thing sit for a week not much "spits" out just some vapor like checking tire pressure even you get a spit but with the screw on fittings if you can't be fast more.

                              Hard to say. Doesn't take much oil to make a mess and think it's a lot. Years of use some is lost I think to rubber in R-12 has been an ongoing explanation why when most were converted to 134a (again it's a much smaller molecule) doesn't leak as pores in rubber are full of oil and super fine particles - educated guess.

                              Hey - 10 years is probably the expected life of trouble free use of a system if the whole thing was new now closing in on the 30 year age area have to wonder where the weaker item are that are subject to fail. Oh me oh my - parts for things boxed new aren't any good if "new old stock" NOS is the abbreviation for that if you are now hunting down parts.

                              Seems with the frustrations maybe just redo the TXV again with high hopes the new one is good. Use some sealing product that will tolerate conditions better than even OE stuff.

                              Assorted reason I will use what's called "removable caulking" the one I've used sold by Mortite . Home centers don't carry that name. For me it's noted seals and is like putty also sticky and tolerates close to flame heat! Sticks to wax paper, candles - sold for use for assorted anything - reading a box in front of me no web site for it on box.

                              HVAC box if cracked - any dryer vent type ducts that may not stay on etc. Stuff does clean off years later just BTW. It's just one of many things not sold for automotive only use just handy as well as foil real duct tapes.

                              Since it can than doesn't behave it's open to anything that now isn't right. Now that you have more R-12 perhaps go ahead and put in a new TXV hope it's good. In fact make sure bottle's turn knob is good as well! I seen those new just touch them and lose the whole bottle when they were not old at all bought new the bottle and valve were pretty cheap junk! Stinks,

                              Tom
                              MetroWest, Boston

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Thanks again Tom. The humidity here in Ala is awful. Don't ever remember it being this humid but you got to remember, we had tons of rain this summer and it has to go somewhere I will contact the person tomorrow who is supposed to let me have the R12 and then I will just take a chance and order the TXV and drier. I will also replace the high pressure line from compressor to condenser because I am seeing oil on it. I just cannot stay in this truck very long with this heat . I know this truck is old but its no good driving it here without staying cool. I will keep you updated on how things go. THANKS again . Tomd

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