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1990 Nissan Hardbody hot air

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  • #46
    When we moved from Pittsburgh in 1967, just one home in our area had central AC, and very few of the vehicles. Of course in Phoenix those became necessities, we had stuff in boxes in the carport melt.

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    • #47
      Sixputt - All: We've drifted and good reasons by locations to need what for A/C if at all and yes IMO anywhere in Fla. highly desirable for both vehicles and homes. Neither would be mandatory for many rather to a must the way vehicles and buildings are built. No ventilation so dependent on it by designs of both.

      Where are we with your truck? Had lousy performance and were going to get tests or replacement of "X" valve and see what new results that achieved?

      Did you decide that R-12 was available enough to leave it that yet or convert to only thing known practical to me is to 134a. Possibly a repeat on my part expect to lose 20% of BTU of cooling power or bolster heat exchange of condenser to high efficiency and think about added fan power to it to be equal to what it was.

      If you want start a new thread with a summary of just where the truck is at right now and any performance under what conditions and start new probably best to zoom in on a fix or ideas of what to do.

      We can "Chit-Chat" all we want separately in the section just for that but for now losing it with flipping pages on your troubles to get the truck's A/C working to your liking,
      Tom
      MetroWest, Boston

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      • #48
        Sorry about the posts. I tend to ramble

        Back on the Nissan. I drove it this past Sunday to my shop which is about 6 miles. Vent temps were 39 to 44 which was cool and comfortable but the outside temps had dropped to around 80. I even let the truck idle at my shop for about 20 minutes and never once did the vent temp go above 44 degrees.

        Same thing when I drove it back home. The next day it worked perfect in the morning but the heat had not got that high that time of the day.

        That afternoon I drove it for 10 miles with the outside temps around 90 and never got the vent temps below 65 degrees and just didn't cool.

        I am planning on ordering a TXT valve and drier and install them.

        I have plenty of R 12 available now as my cousin who owns a shop said I could get all I need. He has lots of it.

        I will pull a vacuum for at least an hour, install the new valve and drier with the HP line and see how it goes. It is showing all the symptoms of a stuck valve . High pressure high and low going into a vacuum but not sure why it works good when the outside temp is not that high. I will keep you updated when I start and complete the job. Tom

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        • #49
          OK - Refresh: For vacuum have engine warm when starting. Pump doesn't need to stay running just watch that it holds when max reached. Objective is no air in the system.

          This is posted here at site worth a re-read as needed. Links may be down not needed in it >> https://forum.aircondition.com/forum...ve-a-c-systems << Good luck,
          Tom
          MetroWest, Boston

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          • #50
            My cousin came for a visit today. I told him that we would ride to where our grandparents had a small farm back in the early 1900's and I wanted him to go with me in my Nissan.

            The drive was about 30 miles and never once did the vent temp go above 42 degree. It stayed on 40 degrees most of the ride and the cab was very nice and cool.

            We stopped and eat lunch for about 40 minutes and got back in the truck and still nice and cool. He asked me what problem I was having with the AC and told him I guess nothing as the AC was perfect and the day was Hot.

            When we were close to where the land I wanted to look at I noticed a man working near the gate that has access to the land. I stopped and talked to this person and left the truck running with AC on. I stayed at least 25 minutes and we got back in the truck and it was hot. Vent temps were 70 degrees and all the way back to my home it never got below 60 degrees. I even turned the AC off for a few miles then turned it back on but still warm air so we just rolled the windows down the rest of the way back home.

            After my cousin left I let the truck sit for 90 minutes and then started it up to drive to my shop 7 miles away. It was blowing cold air all the way there and back. As soon I started the truck nice cold air was coming out of the vents. Vent temp was 39 to 42 degrees for the entire 14 miles round trip. Now what happened this afternoon to it when I left it running to not cool? Did the compressor clutch start slipping because of the heat under the hood? I have no clue other than nothing but hot air.
            The day was in the low 90's and leaving the truck running and not moving I am sure it got a little warm but the dash temp gauge showed normal but AC would not cool. I am now lost on what is happening. Maybe I need to start testing the compressor clutch to see if it is ok. Maybe the coil is weak and when it gets really hot it is now holding.
            I will figure this out sooner or later but for now I am going to let it be. Fall will be here soon and I will not need cold air much then. I just cannot stand to be whipped but so far this one has got me. Tom.
            Last edited by sixputt; 08-25-2017, 12:01 AM.

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            • #51
              Let's zoom in on a slipping clutch problem. Yes they can if fighting high pressures comes with high temps. You should be able to see that as outer head of compress chugging while belt is NOT slipping. Might get so hot can't grab.

              More trivia: Hot metal isn't as magnetic! Don't ask - you can't pick up molten metal with a magnet and have to be fast to observe that.

              Possible but if doing so the thing would wear out pretty fast and the gap would be exceeding it's maybe .035 gap and quit soon then no A/C engagement. Check just anyway it's easy enough.

              I doubt this is why. Still think there's a haunted expansion valve with a full attitude! If new and still same now perhaps moisture has been allowed into refrigerant only part of system or a really sneaky problem with a blend door? IDK - trick is pinch off INLET (smaller heater hose) for a check but not for too long as many are part of the cooling system's must have bypass system for coolant.

              This thing is being a real pest isn't it?
              Tom
              MetroWest, Boston

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              • #52
                I am going to clean the condenser with cleaner and see if the head pressure goes down and maybe it cools better. I got some cleaner left over from cleaning my pontoons. The grill is easy to remove. I will post the results before and after cleaning. Tom

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                • #53
                  Just on condenser - cleaning + Performance: If OE it should be tube and fin and stronger against leaks not the up front issue. Do remember it needs to be clear between it and radiator plus radiator can matter if it has hot spots that "radiant" heat can flow back towards condensers.

                  The two common dirts outside would be foliage like pine or other needles, leaves heavy pollen or for you maybe those "love bugs" for lack of a better word for those.

                  Products? Depends on what if dirty. Read containers and test I guess is best. They would sell stuff may not be right for you. Do watch out what you use to not cause another whole problem.

                  If that is somehow not capable outside or inside time to target spray water at it best you can trying to figure out if hot spots and if an area is not warm at all maybe by how fast water evaporates off of it and pressures dropping when one spot in particular DOES NOT make much difference in high pressure?

                  Some thoughts/notes: Since this can snap out of it when left for a while then stick to lousy performance I'd be back to testing where temps don't show right by feel or thermos that can. It's got to show what is going on where if you can access the spot even the X valve that temp after that should remain the same into and out of evaporator within a couple degrees as it's completing liquid to total vapor/gas all right there. If too little performance is off and too much it floods it still liquid didn't evaporate then intermittent heat contamination I guess would be left to a blend door not sealing tight could be intermittent.

                  In short should be no harm in cleaning + do check in between as well,
                  Tom
                  MetroWest, Boston

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                  • #54
                    I would suggest that when the vent temperature goes north that you immediately pull over, leaving everything on, and seeing if the compressor center is actually turning, or whether the outer pulley only.

                    On my 1988 Mazda truck I soldered a wire onto the compressor feed wire, and wired that to a small blue light I installed on my dashboard, so I could have feedback whether the compressor was getting voltage. That helped me track down a compressor slippage issue, that the compressor was getting voltage at times but the compressor center wasn't turning.

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                    • #55
                      Agree - catch this thing doing it's tricks. Cusser - dang thread is so long it's nuts. It does (I think already said) cool from 90F to vents 70F so it's doing something? I'm pretty lost without watching this thing do it live. If constantly slipping wouldn't a clutch about glow from the heat if partial? Never saw one do that and last the rest of a day as if seen would unplug the dang thing wouldn't be mine just noticed at some other gathering not about A/C and someone says this or that see that and disable it so it can be fixed by someone else saying what was seen never hear again about those most of the time wasn't home,
                      Tom
                      MetroWest, Boston

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Cusser View Post
                        I would suggest that when the vent temperature goes north that you immediately pull over, leaving everything on, and seeing if the compressor center is actually turning, or whether the outer pulley only.

                        On my 1988 Mazda truck I soldered a wire onto the compressor feed wire, and wired that to a small blue light I installed on my dashboard, so I could have feedback whether the compressor was getting voltage. That helped me track down a compressor slippage issue, that the compressor was getting voltage at times but the compressor center wasn't turning.
                        Think you may be on to something. A worn belt or pulley? I have seen where the V belt will bottom in the pulley and slip with NO noise, Belt can be tight but if the pulley or belt is worn enough so the V section is not holding the bottom of the belt from bottoming in the pulley it will slip.

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                        • #57
                          This HAS to be checked. I can see maybe a wet "V" belt (coolant soaked maybe" work 100% then slip at a pulley even if not at the compressor could be the lower one (harmonic balancer) and be quiet about it. Seem to work some as it was said it did cool poorly just not well - would be rare to miss this but totally possible! This should be a manually tensioned "V" belt probably all on it's own doesn't effect anything else make it easier to miss,
                          Tom
                          MetroWest, Boston

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                          • #58
                            Yeah, I think sixputt needs to determine if the compressor center (compressor) has stopped spinning when the temperature does its rise, for anyone to move ahead; and if it does become disengaged then determine if it's still getting positive voltage.

                            When this happened on my 1988 Mazda B2200 and I determined that sometimes the magnetic clutch had power but had dis-engaged (free wheeling), I practiced removing the AC clutch on two old compressors I had (had to make some special extractor tools, the loaner ones did not fit) so I could do an AC clutch R&R without removing the compressor (as I had space for that). So when I got around to removing the AC clutch from my real compressor, I discovered that the center tightening nut just needed more tightening, it had worked loose. So if your AC clutch turns out to be disengaged when it shouldn't be, it just might be something simple like a loose nut or a bad/loose belt.

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                            • #59
                              I'll just refresh it doesn't STOP cooling it just stinks so it turns just not right? How? Slipping at the clutch or only drive pulley the balancer. I just don't know and nothing I will be sure of found how the belt set up works for the specific truck. If that belt only stays at idle speed when hot that would do it. Other on the balancer is it's rubber isolating center of it from the outer metal where belts ride. Those I see fall off but not slip. No clue if somehow there's a failure there but it would add up to how and why this misbehaves and eludes regular diagnosis.

                              Good thinking on your part - time to consider "outside of the box" reasons and this is next to rule in or out,
                              Tom
                              MetroWest, Boston

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                              • #60
                                The AC has not missed a beat in the last three weeks. Vent temps stay around 40 degree's. I have done nothing more to this truck other than drive it. My wife even asked me today after we took a ride in it what I did to get it cooling this good. I told her nothing. It just decided to cool. It is also very hot and humid here where I live. Maybe the TX valve decided to start working. Anyway for now all is good.

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