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Evens Tempcon system in F53 Ford based motorhome.Don't know where to go from here

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  • #16
    I agree and there is no way I will buy a crimper for 3/4" hose fittings for just this one hos. Still havent heard back from Tempcon so I don't even know which hose to order. The local aoti AC company says they can get the odd dual flare and o ring end fittings from Miami and crimp the hoses to them for less than Tempcon supplies the hose. Then I at least know it is the right one. Since this is the Keys it will be ready soon, soon, couple days, any day... It will happen.
    I have plenty to do in the meanwhile. Just finished replacing the condenser, drier and evaporator in my wife's Honda Civic. Evacuated and filled. Works great. I found the cause of the mysterious cough that she has had for years. The inside of the evaporator compartment was horribly mildewed and moldy. I suspect some liquid got in there before we got it and then the slow leak added to it. While the AC was out of commission she used my car and not it has all been cleaned out. The cough stopped and has not returned.

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    • #17
      Still waiting. Parts have last been seen in Texas but are headed this way. Might even have the hose tomorrow. Might. Never know.

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      • #18
        Got the hose yesterday late and installed it along with the new, sealed drier. I evacuated the system and kept the pump on for three hours. I added the remaining 4oz compressor oil and 2 oz of dye and 42oz by weight of the recommended 44oz of 134a. That leaves me 2oz low. I can get a small can later to complete the fill. Here are the pressures after adding at 85f and 80% humidity. Gage picture attached. At 40 the low side seems a little high while the 140 on the high side seems low. The air coming out is cold but not as cold as I expect. I will get a temp as soon as I find my thermometer. Do you think I have a compressor problem? I wouldn't think 2 oz would cause that low a high reading. The air was always less cold at idle.

        Added- The compressor clutch did engage continue to run. The readings were with the compressor running. Inside the RV the temperature was around 120f
        Added- I saw this: "Of all the bad expansion valves seen over the years, I think those that stick closed are most common. Those are the easy ones. Gauges will show very low suction side pressure along with lower than normal high side pressure. The low side may even draw into a vacuum. That's a big clue. Those that appear to be stuck closed may have inlet screens clogged with ground up desiccant particles. This will look like beach sand packed into the inlet." I did have some sandy looking material in the high side of the expansion valve when I removed the high side tube. It was only a small amount and was not inside but in the threads of the fitting. My readings seem too close to normal to be a stuck valve though.
        Last edited by Tom Greenleaf; 07-25-2018, 03:21 PM.

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        • #19
          Copy of "unapproved" post and IDK why?
          This is it again>
          Got the hose yesterday late and installed it along with the new, sealed drier. I evacuated the system and kept the pump on for three hours. I added the remaining 4oz compressor oil and 2 oz of dye and 42oz by weight of the recommended 44oz of 134a. That leaves me 2oz low. I can get a small can later to complete the fill. Here are the pressures after adding at 85f and 80% humidity. Gage picture attached. At 40 the low side seems a little high while the 140 on the high side seems low. The air coming out is cold but not as cold as I expect. I will get a temp as soon as I find my thermometer. Do you think I have a compressor problem? I wouldn't think 2 oz would cause that low a high reading. The air was always less cold at idle.

          Added- The compressor clutch did engage continue to run. The readings were with the compressor running. Inside the RV the temperature was around 120f
          Added- I saw this: "Of all the bad expansion valves seen over the years, I think those that stick closed are most common. Those are the easy ones. Gauges will show very low suction side pressure along with lower than normal high side pressure. The low side may even draw into a vacuum. That's a big clue. Those that appear to be stuck closed may have inlet screens clogged with ground up desiccant particles. This will look like beach sand packed into the inlet." I did have some sandy looking material in the high side of the expansion valve when I removed the high side tube. It was only a small amount and was not inside but in the threads of the fitting. My readings seem too close to normal to be a stuck valve though.

          Tom
          MetroWest, Boston

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          • #20
            I'm seeing 40 and 240, not 140. 240 seams reasonable to me.
            40 on the low side isn't bad if the evaporator truly is seeing 120 deg heat.
            Last edited by Cornbinder89; 07-25-2018, 03:31 PM.

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            • #21
              Sorry about that please know I'm always learning "Mod" controls by the seat of my pants? IDK why it did that so just copied it and reposted now shows my user name? The word "desiccant" was a "hyperlink" unseen to you usually means (other forums I work at) it's just a copy of what you wrote there is to spam the reader with that place's ads but didn't show that? Sorry - I really don't know why that happened let's work with it copied for now out of order now?
              Tom
              MetroWest, Boston

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              • #22
                Tom, I approved the post, so should be visible to everyone now.

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                • #23
                  That's what I see too. It still shows "unapproved" so should be unseen to other than moderators. Looks fine what I don't like is finding desiccant as a debris if it really was at all.

                  Other note may just be me but why do you let a vacuum pump stay running for hours unless you like paying for the electricity to run it. When it reaches full vacuum what more are you doing? Let it hold locking it. If it doesn't then find out why running a vacuum pump again a few minutes again to max vacuum and see if it climbs or not. Refresh that. It has to hold not just stay showing full vacuum while being pumped out actively you stop and check it's there yet or not.

                  Once there's "nothing" inside what more from ZERO can you get?
                  Tom
                  MetroWest, Boston

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                  • #24
                    So much here!
                    "why do you let a vacuum pump stay running for hours unless you like paying for the electricity to run it."
                    I have always been told that the pump should be run for hours to evaporate moisture in the system.
                    Cornbinder
                    "I'm seeing 40 and 240, not 140. 240 seams reasonable to me.
                    40 on the low side isn't bad if the evaporator truly is seeing 120 deg heat."
                    Whoops. I am a bit tired and brain screws up. It was 40. Now that I have the full 44oz of refrigerant in the high side is still 240. I found the IF thermometer and by then the temp near the evaporator was 94f and the air coming out of the vent was 70f. I expect to see a bigger difference when driving. It might be good enough but not exactly a blast of cold air I would expect. I am happy that it is running and that the pressures are reasonable though. The low pressure hose is cold and sweats but it is close to 90 and 80% humid.

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                    • #25
                      Quote again ""why do you let a vacuum pump stay running for hours unless you like paying for the electricity to run it."
                      I have always been told that the pump should be run for hours to evaporate moisture in the system."

                      Refresh what I mean: It's EMPTY! Letting it just run endlessly is a waste but worse you haven't locked it off to see it hold all that time either. Shut the pump off dammit. Lock gauges to watch it. Please tell me how you get more from ZERO? Smile but it's NOT a credit card :-)

                      Note on humidity: It wets the evaporator more, less transfer of heat if soaked, performance reduction expected that's really all.

                      Question me if a typo and make plenty it changes whole thought on something sometimes. Not intended and I don't catch all of them some is flippin' computer trying to auto check spelling and not noticed it's wrong! Never intentional by me!
                      Tom
                      MetroWest, Boston

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Tom Greenleaf View Post
                        Quote again ""why do you let a vacuum pump stay running for hours unless you like paying for the electricity to run it."
                        I have always been told that the pump should be run for hours to evaporate moisture in the system."

                        Refresh what I mean: It's EMPTY! Letting it just run endlessly is a waste but worse you haven't locked it off to see it hold all that time either. Shut the pump off dammit. Lock gauges to watch it. Please tell me how you get more from ZERO? Smile but it's NOT a credit card :-)

                        Note on humidity: It wets the evaporator more, less transfer of heat if soaked, performance reduction expected that's really all.

                        Question me if a typo and make plenty it changes whole thought on something sometimes. Not intended and I don't catch all of them some is flippin' computer trying to auto check spelling and not noticed it's wrong! Never intentional by me!
                        I apologize for giving offense. I thought you asked a question and I tried to answer. I will try to be more careful. Sorry.

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                        • #27
                          No offense at all. I just hear of that all the time that's all. Could be me, I don't get why folks keep it running. Carry on no need to apologize,
                          Tom
                          MetroWest, Boston

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                          • #28
                            It's been long enough to be sure. The old beast is cooling as well as it ever did and I am happy. Thank you all for the advice and information. You guys made all of the difference.

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                            • #29
                              Glad it worked out.

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                              • #30
                                One more thing that was important. Remember that I said it worked as well as it ever did. It really did not have the kind of cooling I wanted but then it never did, I found another problem yesterday that was remedied easily and made all of the difference. Because of bad spade lugs in the back of the rotary fan switch the fan ran at half speed or less. At that speed not only did it not blow a lot of air but I suspect that it did not fully remove the heat from the air. Now it blows a tot more air and works more like a beast that size ought to. Just something to check for those who follow.

                                http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/dash-...ce-409791.html

                                Thanks again

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